September 22nd - 27th 2006 Santiago de Compostela - Muxia - Finisterre 121kms My journey to the ocean was one of contrasts. Some days I had some of the best, most stunningly hot, fresh and sunny weather whilst walking in the most beautiful scenery, overlooking rocky coves and deserted beaches, or climbing through shady green forests. Others I had to deal with the full force of the hurricane on exposed mountain slopes in rain so heavy and wind so strong it was positively frightening, my feet swimming in my waterlogged boots and my clothes soaked through (waterproof jacket?good one!). I also walked through areas of forest devestated first by numerous forest fires, followed by the destruction of the storm, but everywhere there was new life bursting through the sodden ashes. Sometimes I was so isolated and alone I wondered if I´d wandered totally away from the camino, others I would spend the whole day unexpectedly bumping into people I met weeks or months ago. I walked so far some days I didn´t reach somewhere to stay ´til after 9pm, and all I could do was drop on a mattress and go to sleep. But I also gave myself a day off for the first time - wandering around with no backpack, sunbathing on the beach and eating ice cream all felt like real novelties. Now I am in Fistera, the end of the line in every sense. I still have a bit more time in Spain but my hideous walking socks can go in the bin. I am so happy to have made this journey alone, using just my own mental and physical strength to get here, carrying my life on my back. But my camino has been so much more than I had hoped and it´s really sad for me to think that the journey really is over.
September 22nd 2006 Monte de Gozo - Santiago de Compostela 5kms I reached Santiago very early in the morning, before all the tourist hoards arrived, all wanting to take pictures of a real pilgrim. It was raining (Santiago is supposedly more beautiful in the rain) and the cathedral looked suitably imposing. Reaching the city alone, on foot, after travelling over 700kms to be here was an emotional experience and I found it all a bit overwhelming. So, after just 3 hours in Santiago, collecting my Compostela certificate, visiting Saint James in the cathedral (the traditional goal of the pilgrimage) and bumping into previous walking companions, I decided to press on towards the ocean. I will take some time to revisit Santiago after and appreciate it as a tourist, but for now I am happy to be heading to what was once the end of the known world at Finisterre.
September 21st 2006 Rivadiso do Baixo - Monte de Gozo 35kms 5kms to Santiago The weather was not so bad in the end. The morning was very very windy and I had to climb over a few fallen trees but the worst of the rain was in the west so I didn´t get drenched too badly. In fact the cooler weather probably helped me to do such a big step today. I will be in Santiago in the morning, a place I have dreamt about reaching for years, and it feels very strange to be right on the doorstep.
September 20th 2006 Palas do Rei - Rivadiso do Baixo 25kms 41kms to Santiago I´m staying in a beautiful beautiful albergue tonight, in a converted pilgrim hospital by the river. I had a quick dip, making the most of the hot sunshine and good weather while it lasted, as apparently Galicia is about to be hit tonight by the worst hurricane it has seen in 15 years. I am quite scared as if I want to be in Santiago in the time I have planned I really have to walk tomorrow.
September 19th 2006 Portomarin - Palas do Rei 26kms 65kms to Santiago Palas do Rei is really a dump and I´m so bored but I got the last bed in the albergue so I´m happy hahaha! In Galicia they don´t seem to understand the concept of privacy - none of the showers have doors or curtains, which makes for a very quick shower when you´re in a mixed dorm. I´m considering giving up washing - really what´s the point when I´m just going to sweat some more the next day anyway?
September 18th 2006 Samos - Portomarin 38.5kms 90kms to Santiago If you had told me a week ago even that I would walk nearly 40kms in a day I would have laughed. As it was I was nearly crying by the time I got to Portomarin at 8pm. After a quiet walking through mist so heavy every time the sun shone a million water droplets sparkled like someone had thrown a tonne of fairy dust at me, I decided today would be an easy day and gave myself a 3 hour luck break, using the internet, enjoying warming up as the sun came out and relaxing with a bocadillo and carajillo. I didn´t give consideration to the fact that now I have crossed the 100kms mark (whoop whoop!)about a million extra pilgrims have joined the camino (you must do at least this distance to be accredited with the compostela and have your sins absolved). So beds are a lot more scarce. No places at the albergue after 5kms was fine but when there were no places at the next, after another 9kms, and people were talking about sleeping outside (in the mist) I started to get a bit stressed. Eventually, after walking an extra 18kms than planned and being turned away from 4 albergues I found a bed. Every muscle in my body was protesating but I slept so well despite being in a room with about 80 snoring pilgrims.
September 17th 2006 Fonfria - Samos 19kms 126kms to Santiago Rain to make up for the sun yesterday - I spent the morning in a cloud finding my way by keeping in sight a German man in a bright red poncho looking just like a Teletubbie. I stayed in a monastery this evening and was blessed in the adjoining church (the holy water didn´t burn so I can´t be all bad).
September 16th 2006 Ruitelan - Fonfria 21.5kms 138.5kms to Santiago The most perfect day of my whole camino I think - I spent the day feeling like an extra from The Sound of Music. The weather was absolutely perfect - blue skies and brilliant sunshine. I had been warned so many times that this stretch would be cloudy and freezing but I guess I just got lucky because the whole day was stunning and the views are a result were 360degrees of breathtaking splendour. Galicia itself is amazing, full of tiny stone hamlets where the farmers walk their cows along the narrow streets looking at you like they´ve never seen a pilgrim before.
September 15th 2006 Villafranca del Bierzo - Ruitelan 21.5kms 162kms to Santiago I have to admit I cheated a little bit today - this stretch is the steepest of the whole camino so when I found I had the opportunity to get my pack sent ahead and just carry a little day bag I took it, and it was really nice not to have all that weight (although I have chucked so much stuff it hardly weighs 7kilos now) but I did feel guilty and kept feeling I´d left something important behind. The lack of bag meant I was able to take the longer, steeper but much more beautiful route and it was really special, the views into the valley were amazing and we passed through some beautiful forests and tiny isolated cloud filled hamlets.
September 14th 2006 Ponferrada - Villafrance del Bierzo 22.2kms 183kms to Santiago Today I had a really unpleasant experience; one I had been warned happens from time to time on the camino but never expected to happen to me. I was walking on a short stretch of fields between 2 villages, not too far from other pilgrims as I know to be safe, but far enough away for what happened to happen. As I came round a corner a white van approached me, getting closer and closer until I thought it would knock me into the ditch. Then it stopped and the man looked inside looked at me like he wanted to tell me something. So stupidly, as I knew there was something suspect going on, I leaned over and there he was naked as the day he was born and you can imagine what he was doing. Thankfully as soon as he saw the shock on my face he drove off, too quickly for me to think about getting his number plate. I was so disgusted, not really scared as I knew there were poeple 2minutes behind me but so angry that this horrible pervert had got the better of me. Luckily the rest of the day was much better, I walked with a friend to calm my nerves and ended in a beautiful village on the last day of fiesta. i had a gorgeous dinner in the cloister of an old convent and watched and orchestra play whilst some giant puppets paraded the streets before fireworks.
September 13th 2006 Rabanal del Camino - Ponferrada 34kms 205kms to Santiago 34kms! i cant believe I walked so far! It was such a brilliant day´s walking it just didn´t feel hard to just keep going. Today I passed over Cruz de Ferro, a famous spot where pilgrims traditionally leave a stone they have carried with them from home and the highest point of the whole camino at 1517m. I had nothing from home so i left a small gemstone given to me by a fortune teller in Astorga - it meant I would have good luck and strong willpower (I think she may have guessed I was a pilgrim, it´s not hard to tell). The mountains are just beautiful, I was out early enough to watch the sun rise. But they´re so cold - it´s really a shock after the meseta where it´s like a desert to be here amongst endless trees and clouds.
September 12th 2006 Astorga - Rabanal del Camino 21.5kms 238kms to Santiago I stayed in an English run albergue in Rabanal which menat tea and biscuits and 4pm. Tea in a pot, I miss it so much. It was still made with long life milk but beggars can´t be choosers. I went to a Gregorian chant held by the monks next door this evening, it was really something special and easy to get lost in the monotony of their voices.
September 11th 2006 Hospital de Orbigo - Astorga 17kms 259kms to Santiago Astorga is another of the important big towns on the camino, and the home of Spanish chocolate so I loved it here. There was also this amazing building designed by Gaudi which honestly looked just like the fairy castle from the beginning of Disney films. Apparently a lot of people hate it because it doesn´t fit with all the traditional architrecture but I thought it was beautiful and a refreshing change from all the imposing cathedrals I have become a little blase about to be honest.
September 10th 2006 Villar de Mazarife - Hospital de Orbigo 14.5kms 274kms to Santiago
September 9th 2006 Leon - Villar de Mazarife 20.5kms 289kms to Santiago
September 8th 2006 Mansilla de las Mulas - Leon 18.5kms 311kms to Santiago I´m in beautiful Leon where the sun is shining, it´s hot and it feels good to be back in a bustling city after days of outback towns where the one telephone for miles is not working. Blister update - about 16 now including a couple of weird mutant ones, although none ever cause me any pain or problems any more. My big complaint at the moment is bed bugs - the lovely dorms I stay in are ridden - it´s so minging and I´m absolutely covered in bites from the little bastards. Tonight I´m staying in a convent where the nuns have looked after pilgrims for hndreds of years - it´s so nice to stay in all these really historic buildings but to realise how insignificant I am in the lifespan of the Camino is very humbling.
September 7th 2006 El Burgo Ranero - Mansilla de las Mulas 19kms 329kms to Santiago
September 6th 2006 Sahagun - El Burgo Ranero 19kms 348kms to Santiago
September 5th 2006 Calzadilla de la Cueza - Sahagun 22.5kms 365kms to Santiago
September 4th 2006 Carrion de los Condes - Calzadilla de la Cueza 17.5kms 388kms to Santiago I´ve been having an adventure today but not such a good one. The stretch between Carrion and Calzadila is across exposed meseta, has no rest stops, no towns and no water in between. So to avoid walking in the heat a few of the pilgrims (inc. moi) decided a good idea would be to do a night hike, leaving at half 3 in the morning and getting to our destination not long after sunrise. It seemed like the perfect idea as the stars in the empty skies of the meseta are reputed to be (and are in fact) stunning, the moon was nearly full and the lack of cover on route means it is a safe place to walk in the dark without encountering any dodgy characters. Things initially started going wrong when the owner of the house in which we were staying (in the front porch) woke us up and accused us of stealing from him. Luckily as the non-Spanish speaker of the group I avoided having to deal with this and things were eventually cleared up - but maybe it was a sign of things to come. The walk itself started well - I felt a little rough but thought it was just lack of sleep. Not so. About 2 hours into the journey I started throwing up like never before. We were miles from anywhere, with no water or anywhere to get help so all we could do was keep going, a very kind Belgian (¡Hola Club Med!) carrying both our bags whilst I trudged at a snails pace, pausing frequently to cough my guts up. Eventually we arrived at Calzadilla, the journey taking nearly 6hrs. I slept, with toilet breaks, for the whole day and following night. I´ve never felt so scared, helpless and sapped of energy.
September 3rd 2006 Boadilla del Camino - Carrion de los Condes 25.5kms 405kms to Santiago
September 2nd 2006 Castrojeriz - Boadilla del Camino 19kms 430kms to Santiago
September 1st 2006 Hornillas del Camino - Castrojeriz 20kms 449kms to Santiago
August 31st 2006 Burgos - Hornillas del Camino 18kms 470kms to Santiago My first day on the meseta and its cooking. The meseta are the table mountains of Spain, where endless fields of wheat sway in early June but by this time of year its just empty and flat and barren and enormous and horizonless and just unimaginably, oppressively hot. It is beautiful; the skies are enormous; but it is tough going when your carrying a full pack and to get anywhere without endangering yourself through dehydration and heatstroke its necessary to leave before dawn - not my forte.
August 30th 2006 Atapuerca - Burgos 21.5kms 488kms to Santiago
August 29th 2006 Villafranca Montes de Oca - Atapuerca 18kms 509kms to Santiago I´m in the home of Homo antecessor, Dr.Una Vidarsdottir would be so proud. A bit ironic that the site of irrefutable evidence that human beings are the product of evolution is right in the middle of a trail which celebrates a religion whose basis lies in the notion of creationism? I have been looking forward to reaching Atapuerca for a while, so I was a bit gutted to discover that my rubbish Spanish led me to wait for the bus to the site of the dig in the wrong place.
August 28th 2006 Belorado - Villafranca Montes de Oca 12kms 528kms to Santiago Not a good day, after a lovely meal last night (on my own - 5quid for 3 courses a coffee and bottle of wine) I discovered my bank card was missing. Could the 2 events be connected? Possibly but all I know was it through me into a big panic - thank you so much M&P and especially Ben for sorting me out!
August 27th 2006 Grañon - Belorado 17kms 539kms to Santiago
August 26th 2006 Azofra - Grañon 21.5kms 555kms to Santiago My favourite albergue (hostel) so far - built into the bell tower of a church in a tiny village, I hung my undies out to dry from the top of the tower, they had lovely views over the rooftops. Also the most friendly place so far; they dont charge a fee to stay the night, just ask for a donation to cover the delicious meal they cooked up for all the guests. Met a lovely British guy here who spends his days driving up and down the Camino in a camper van helping pilgrims in need - very eccentric as you can imagine. I timed my stay here very well as the village was putting on a regional show charting the history of the pilgrim presence in the village and the venue was the same church in which I was staying. It was very well done, although difficult to understand with my fledgling Castillano. But worth it for the amazing light show in the finale, where the massive gold alter was lit up to spectacular effect - it really was like heaven was shining down on us and so so beautiful.
August 25th 2006 Navarette - Azofra 22kms 577kms to Santiago Today, not content with simply sticking needles through my toes, my Spanish companions insisted I walk with extra large incontinence pads in my socks, ingenious! The padding gives comfort and absorbs shock whilst they also absorbs moisture from the feet. Bit embarrassing when I stopped to take of my boots in a cafe in my lunch break tho!
August 24th 2006 Viana - Navarette 22.5kms 599kms to Santiago It is getting easier although I would never admit that to myself during the day, every day feels like the hardest yet. My feet are testament to how hard, 5 blisters and counting, plus aches and pains everywhere. And how I wish for a lie in rather than waking up at 6 everyday, these pilgrim types are too keen for my liking! But complaining aside I´m having an amazing experience. Everyday is different, around every corner there´s an incredible view across hills and valleys, or a picturesque medieval town perched on a hill, or an isolated and beautifully ornate church, or a vineyard where I can steal grapes straight from the vine, or a cool river, etc. etc. I have also met some great people, staying at the same hostels everyday we trade stories from the day and compare war wounds. I have yet to meet a Brit tho, so my Spanish is coming along (very slowly) bit by bit.
August 23rd 2006 Los Arcos - Viana 18.5kms 621kms to Santiago
August 22nd 2006 Estella - Los Arcos 22.4kms 640kms to Santiago
August 21st 2006 Cirauqui - Estella 15kms 661kms to Santiago Today just a short one, just 15kms, but I´m shattered, partly sleeping poorly in dorms but also general fatigue and more blisters. Today took me along a 2000yr old Roman road - strange to think that there have been pilgrims walking on the same stones for millenia and here´s little me following in their footsteps. I have stopped now in the most beautiful town, Estella, full of amazing old buildings so I´m off exploring.
August 20th 2006 Cizur Menor - Cirauqui 26.9kms 675kms to Santiago My first full day´s walk is over, 27kms in a day and only one blister. I spent yesterday getting myself sorted in Pamplona, by supplies and obtaining my all essential pilgrim´s credential which allows me access to the albergues (hostals) along the way and enables me to collect my certificate when I reach Santiago. I then walked the mammoth distance of 5kms to my first hostal, feeling pretty pleased with the world. Today was the real challenge and I have to say I was pretty nervous but it was not as bad as I expected. Leaving early in the morning means missing the real heat of the day and you have the support of the other pilgrims and stunning scenery to spur you on. Time for dinner so got to go as Im being hassled but lets hope it keeps on being as much fun! ps. muchos congrats to aisha and her new arrival xxxxx
August 19th 2006 Pamplona - Cizur Menor 5kms 702kms to Santiago
August 18th 2006 Malaga - Madrid - Pamplona 707kms to Santiago
August 17th 2006
It all starts tomorrow!!! Im catching a bus from Malaga to Pamplona, a mammoth 13 and a half hour journey, early tommorow morning, then the adventure begins on Saturday. You can see from the map that Pamplona is slightly in from the beginning of the trail, so the actual distance I will be walking is 707kms, still enough to frighten me when i see it written down or look on a map. I have been doing some training and planning but also an awful lot of relaxing over the past few weeks, but overall i feel prepared, if a little daunted. Big big thanks to everyone who has sponsored me so far, Im really very chuffed at how many people have taken an interest. Keep checking the website for news of how im progressing!
June 2006.
Thank you for visiting my fundraising page. As of August 21st I will be walking the 750-odd kms of the Camino De Santiago, an ancient pilgrimage route which stretches across the length of northern Spain, just for fun! However, it's going to be bloomin' hard work for someone like myself not known for their sporting excellence, so please dig deep and sponsor me online. Donating through this site is simple, fast and totally secure. It is also the most efficient way to sponsor me: Amnesty International UK Section Charitable Trust will receive your money faster and, if you are a UK taxpayer, an extra 28% in tax will be added to your gift at no cost to you.
So please sponsor me now!
Many thanks for your support. love Hatxx 
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